Embroidery stabilizer chart
The backing for light, medium and dense designs on every common fabric, with the topping and needle to use. Pick a fabric for hooping tips and the right digitizer settings.
| Fabric | Light design | Medium design | Dense design | Topping | Needle |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| T-shirt | No-show mesh or light cut-away (1.5–2 oz) | Medium cut-away (2.5 oz) | Heavy cut-away (3 oz) or two layers | Not usually needed | 75/11 ballpoint |
| Polo (piqué) | No-show mesh (1.5 oz) | Medium cut-away (2.5 oz) | Heavy cut-away (3 oz) | Water-soluble topping for small text on piqué texture | 75/11 ballpoint |
| Hoodie or sweatshirt | Medium cut-away (2.5 oz) | Medium-heavy cut-away (2.5–3 oz) | Heavy cut-away (3 oz) or two layers | Water-soluble topping | 75/11 or 80/12 ballpoint |
| Performance or stretch | No-show mesh, fusible if possible | No-show mesh plus light cut-away | Medium cut-away (2.5 oz), fusible | Not usually needed | 70/10 or 75/11 ballpoint |
| Beanie (rib knit) | Sticky tear-away, floated | Light cut-away | Medium cut-away (2.5 oz) | Water-soluble topping on chunky knits | 75/11 ballpoint |
| Woven shirt (cotton, oxford) | Light tear-away (1.5 oz) | Medium tear-away (2 oz) | Medium cut-away or two layers of tear-away | Not needed | 75/11 sharp |
| Denim or canvas | Medium tear-away (2 oz) | Medium-heavy tear-away (2.5 oz) | Two layers of tear-away or a cut-away | Not needed | 80/12 or 90/14 sharp (jeans needle on heavy denim) |
| Tote bag | Medium tear-away (2 oz) | Medium tear-away (2 oz) | Cut-away (2.5 oz) | Not needed | 80/12 or 90/14 sharp |
| Structured cap | Cap backing (heavy tear-away) | Cap backing (heavy tear-away) | Two layers of cap backing | Not usually needed | 75/11 or 80/12 sharp |
| Towel (terry) | Tear-away or wash-away | Medium tear-away (2 oz) | Medium tear-away plus wash-away | Water-soluble topping, always | 75/11 or 80/12 sharp |
| Leather or vinyl | Medium tear-away, floated | Medium tear-away, floated | Medium cut-away, floated | Not needed | 75/11 or 80/12 sharp or leather needle |
| Sheer or lightweight (silk, organza) | Wash-away (water-soluble) mesh | Wash-away mesh, two layers | Not recommended: choose a lighter design | Optional wash-away film | 65/9 or 70/10 sharp |
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Stabilizer questions
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Which stabilizer should I use?
Knits such as T-shirts, polos and hoodies need cut-away, which stays in and supports the stitches as the fabric stretches. Stable wovens such as denim, canvas and tote bags can use tear-away. Towels and fleece add a water-soluble topping on top.
What is the difference between cut-away and tear-away?
Cut-away is trimmed around the design and stays in the garment for good, so it suits stretchy fabric. Tear-away tears off after sewing, for stable woven fabric.
When do I need a topping?
On fabric with a pile or texture, such as towels, fleece, knit beanies and piqué polos, so the stitches sit on top instead of sinking in.
Does design density change the stabilizer?
Yes. Dense designs pull harder, so they need a heavier backing or two layers; light lettering can use a lighter one.
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