How to embroider an apron

How to embroider an apron: bib and pocket placement and sizes, canvas vs cotton backing and needles, hooping around straps and pockets, and logos for cafés.

Updated · 6 min read

An apron with a coffee cup embroidered on the bib

Aprons are workwear and gifts at the same time: café and bakery staff aprons with the shop's logo, a name on a grill apron for a birthday, a child's apron for baking. They're also friendly to embroider. Most are flat, sturdy woven fabric, such as cotton twill, poly-cotton or heavy canvas, with no stretch to fight.

The things to plan are placement and size on the bib or pocket, the right backing for the fabric's weight, and keeping straps, ties and pockets out of the needle's way. To digitize a café logo at the right size, start with the logo to embroidery file page.

Where designs go on an apron, and how big

PlacementDesign sizeWhere it sitsGood to know
Bib, centeredAbout 4–6 in (100–150 mm) wide; up to about 7 in on wide bibsCentered side to side, top about 2–3 in below the top edgeThe main spot for a café or shop logo
Bib, left chest3–4 in (75–100 mm) wideOn the wearer's left, near the top of the bibLeaves room for a name on the right
Bib, right chest name2–3.5 in (50–90 mm) wideLevel with the left chest logoStaff names, often with a job title
PocketUsually about 2–4 in (50–100 mm) wide, inside the pocket with a marginCentered on the pocket, or on one section of a divided pocketStitch only the pocket's front layer
Waist apronAbout 3–5 in (75–125 mm) wideOn the pocket, or above it at one sideShort half aprons leave little room above the pocket

Aprons vary a lot in size and cut, so measure the bib or pocket you'll stitch. Put the apron on, or hang it from a hook, and hold a printout of the design against it: a logo centered on the flat bib can sit too low or too high once it's worn. The left chest and right chest size pages have the standard measurements, and the hoop template prints a true-size outline to check placement.

Canvas vs cotton: backing and needle

Apron fabricBackingNeedleGood to know
Heavy canvas or duckMedium tear-away (2 oz); two layers or a cut-away for dense logos80/12 or 90/14 sharpStable and forgiving; takes dense fills well
DenimMedium tear-away; cut-away for dense designs or stretch denim80/12 or 90/14 sharpKeep clear of thick seams and rivets
Cotton or poly-cotton twillMedium tear-away; cut-away for dense logos on lighter twill75/11 or 80/12 sharpThe usual workwear apron fabric
Lightweight cotton or linenLight cut-away or a medium tear-away75/11 sharpThinner fabric puckers under dense fills; keep designs lighter

Canvas is the easy case: stable enough for tear-away, which leaves a clean inside. Lighter cotton and linen aprons are closer to shirting, and a dense logo can pucker them once the tear-away comes off, so step up to a light cut-away. Work aprons are often washed hot and frequently, so a cut-away is a sensible choice for dense logos on any apron that's laundered a lot. Use the woven preset in the digitizer for all of these, and see the denim guide for denim aprons.

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Hooping around straps and ties

  1. Mark the center of the design with chalk or a water-soluble pen, plus a line square to the top edge so the design sews straight.
  2. Hoop the bib with the backing, smooth and firm. Most bibs are a single layer, so this is like hooping a flat piece of fabric.
  3. Tie or clip the neck strap and waist ties out of the way, so they can't drag under the presser foot or catch on the hoop as it moves.
  4. Keep the hoop and the design clear of the hems around the bib and pocket. Double-folded hems are thick, and the needle can deflect on them.
  5. Check underneath: only the bib and the backing should be under the needle, with the skirt of the apron folded clear.

Adjustable neck straps with metal hardware need extra care: keep the buckle well clear of the needle and the hoop's path. If a narrow bib is too small for the hoop to clamp, float it on sticky backing.

For a staff order, make a placement template from card cut to the shape of the bib, with the logo's center marked. Lay it on every apron, so the logos match across the team.

Embroidering apron pockets

A pocket is a second layer stitched onto the apron on three sides. Stitch through both and you sew the pocket shut, so only its front layer can go under the needle:

  • Before it's sewn on: if you're making the apron, embroider the pocket piece flat, then attach it. It's the cleanest result.
  • Unpick it: open the pocket's stitching, embroider it flat and sew it back on. Worth it on a few aprons; slow on a big order.
  • Slide the hoop in: on a large pocket, slip the hoop's outer ring and the backing inside the pocket so only its front layer is hooped. Small pockets won't take a hoop.
  • Above the pocket instead: if none of these is practical, put the design on the apron just above the pocket.

On divided pockets, such as the pen and notepad slots on café aprons, center the design on one section and keep it clear of the dividing seams.

Logos for cafés and names for gifts

  • Café and shop logos: digitize the logo once at the apron size and keep that file for every reorder. If the same logo goes on shirts and caps too, make a file at each size rather than stretching one, since scaling a stitch file by more than about 10% throws off its density.
  • Staff names: a bold block font with capitals about 8–13 mm (0.3–0.5 in) tall reads across a counter. Put names on the right chest of the bib, level with the logo.
  • Gifts: a name with a small motif, such as the free coffee mug or lemons designs, suits kitchen and café aprons. The text to embroidery tool makes the name.
  • Kids' aprons: smaller bibs take designs of about 2.5–4 in (65–100 mm), with a rounded font about 15 mm tall or more.

Pricing a café order? The stitch count is the starting point for the embroidery pricing calculator, and the logo digitizing guide covers preparing the artwork.

Step-by-step: embroidering an apron

  1. Decide the placement, measure the bib or pocket and choose the design width.
  2. Open the digitizer, sign in with your free account and add the logo or artwork, ideally an SVG or a PNG at least 1,000 px across.
  3. Choose the woven preset, set the width and read the design check, which flags details under about 0.8 mm and lettering under about 5 mm.
  4. Check the stitch count, then download your machine's format, or DST for a shop's multi-needle machine. Digitizing and previewing are free with your account; downloads need a plan.
  5. Hoop the apron with the right backing, tie the straps clear and fit the needle for the fabric.
  6. Sew a test on a spare apron or a scrap of the same fabric, then stitch the order.
  7. Tear away or trim the backing and press from the back.

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Where do you put a logo on an apron?

Centered on the bib with its top about 2–3 in below the top edge, or on the wearer's left chest like a shirt, with a name on the right. Waist aprons usually carry the logo on the pocket or just above it.

How big should an apron logo be?

About 4–6 in (100–150 mm) wide when centered on an adult bib, up to about 7 in on wide bibs, and 3–4 in (75–100 mm) on the left chest. Pocket designs have to fit inside the pocket with a margin.

What stabilizer is best for aprons?

A medium tear-away on canvas, denim and twill for most designs, with a second layer or a cut-away for dense logos. Lightweight cotton and linen aprons are better with a light cut-away.

Can you embroider on an apron pocket?

Yes, as long as only the pocket's front layer is stitched. Embroider the pocket before it's sewn on, unpick it and stitch it flat, or slide the hoop inside a large pocket.

What needle do you use on a canvas apron?

An 80/12 or 90/14 sharp. The sharp point pierces the tight weave cleanly, and the 90/14 helps on heavy canvas and near hems. Lighter cotton aprons take a 75/11 sharp.

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